Originally we were going to spend all 2 weeks (7th to 21st May 2010) at the Rhodes apartments but changed half way through.
Flying from Newcastle at 08.35 we had a taxi booked for 5.30 and everything went smoothly – including getting seats together. We were both a bit apprehensive as we had only been for a week in Icmeler four years ago and this was our first 2 week holiday ever.
Newcastle airport is large enough for all the facilities without being huge and we did all the usual things like looking at the duty free, having a coffee etc. Duty/Tax Free shopping is generally a waste of money as neither of us drink alcohol (through choice – not through disapproval) and I roll my own fags. In fact I had 280 pre-rolled ones with me!
The flight was a few minutes late and was the usual budget offering. We were with OnurAir and they will not be our choice next time (see return for details). The package was booked through ICR who are very good – but next time I won't have anything to do with Aegean Flights (see return for details). The four hours passed quite quickly (no need for food or drinks) with brilliant views from the Alps to Dalaman.
Arrival was as usual with no problems at Visa or Passport control (we even got some smiles) and the transfer (ICR – with one other couple) was quick and painless with equally stunning views on our journey to Icmeler. There was no offer of free water or DVD watching but who would want to watch a DVD on such a lovely journey. We made a mistake in not going for a pee before leaving the airport and didn't bother to ask for a break on the journey so our last few miles were a little uncomfortable.
When we got to the Rhodes, there was no-one there and no sign for “Reception”. The driver just left us outside – is this normal or would he be expected to help us in with our luggage? Fortunately there was a couple staying and the woman noticed we looked a bit a lost (having walked all the way round looking for reception) and offered to find “Tango”. As she came downstairs Tango appeared and took us to our room – helping me with my luggage (as I'm the male) and ignoring my partner (the female). I did the Western thing and carried hers.
Our first disappointment was that we had a central room overlooking the pool and had asked for a mountain view balcony. I cannot understand this as we had booked in June last year and there was only one couple staying at the Rhodes. I asked Tango to change but he made such a fuss I gave in and we settled in.
The Rhodes apartment was spotless and well planned with a wonderful large balcony. The only problem with the room was the lack of large plates and shortage of proper dinner knives – there was only one with some tatty “steak” knives as an alternative. I did mention the lack of proper knives to Tango but he ignored it until a few days later when I insisted he give me some. Cleaning was regular and very good and linen changed as advertised. Beds were comfortable. The charge for air conditioning is £5 per day but we felt we didn't need it.
As usual we had a coffee (we take a good instant coffee for the room), unpacked and set off to get some supplies in and see how everything felt after 4 years. In some ways everything felt and looked the same but we soon noticed the differences. Icmeler is a lot cleaner with better roads and pavements and looks smarter. There are many new buildings, some good, some indifferent and some hideous.
Having got our supplies and spent some time on the balcony drinking in the view (The Rhodes has exceptionally good views) we went exploring and by 10pm were exhausted so decided on a quick snack at the Rhodes and then bed. The snack we ordered was a burger and chips. The chips were OK but the burger was the worst I have ever eaten – it looked like a tiny piece of shoe leather and had probably been microwaved a good few minutes too long! I persevered but my partner fed hers to the cat which turned up it's nose at most of it.
The first night was good and we slept well. I had been told to expect a noisy wakening and at about 4.45 the muezzin woke me as though he were in the same room.
He was followed by a symphony of cocks and cows. I actually enjoy the sounds and find the muezzin haunting and beautiful, but they were a little too loud and the next night I wore ear plugs. It was all worth it though as the sunrise was perfect to watch from the balcony. For three days we had bliss, eating out at various places (I have mentioned the deserving in other sections and none were undeserving) and doing our favourite walks with frequent stops to drink coffee and people watch. One of our favourite coffee places in the old village is Captain Sinbads – very relaxed and laid back and we had a meal there when I had my day of Turkish Tummy and wanted a simple omelette (a visit to one of the many chemists sorted the tummy.). The person who served us (one of a giant family) and whose name I've forgotten is very pleasant and I shall never forget the look on his face when we told him that we weren't married and, in fact, didn't live together. He got really animated at the thought and explained how difficult it was for a man to be “friends” with a woman. We also had a few meals in – of the Turkish Breakfast type – and this is one of our great pleasures. We are not anti-social, but we come on holiday to spend quality time together so don't “meet up” with people or do the sort of things we can easily do in the UK. For the same reason we don't do any of the “trips”. Some look very pleasant and inviting but we would want to do them on our own and that would be prohibitively expensive. Consequently we didn't spend any time in the Rhodes restaurant/bar and I think this was the root cause of the unpleasantness that followed.
On our third and fourth evenings all hell broke loose with the Daystar bar blasting music. It is just across the road from the Rhodes and the volume of sound was unbelievable. There was no-one there – just the waiters practising. On the fifth day more guests turned up at the Rhodes and Tango decided to blast his music out to them during the afternoon. Up until that time he had played his music at a reasonable level – we could hear it and it was horrible but we could live with it – but suddenly he turned it up during the afternoon when we were having a rest. I went down and asked him to turn it down again and his attitude stank. He actually said there were people there on holiday and he couldn't spoil their enjoyment. I was so incensed, all I could think of to say was “This place sucks!” and walked off. I think someone from the family heard and had a word with him as the music was turned down. We had a very poor night and the next day went off to ICR to see if we could get an early flight home.
The staff in ICR were magnificent. Obviously concerned, they found us a room in the Ustun apartments and moved us there the next morning.
The Ustun was totally different. It is in the centre of Icmeler in a residential street and quiet during the day. Even the noise from the Canal area (about 3 minutes walk away) is subdued by the surrounding buildings and their own bar music is played at a reasonable level. There is a hotel close by that had a Turkish night which was noisy but we do accept some noise at night. The Ustun is slightly “down at heal” but extremely comfortable (like a favourite pair of slippers) and the family are lovely. Again, friendly without being over familiar. We met some people there who have been going for 15 years and that is the sort of recommendation that speaks for itself. We eat there twice; A British breakfast that was very, very good and a pizza that was reasonable.
Our second week was really good although we both feel that 2 weeks might be a little too much and we found that being central was a great help for our beloved walks by the sea. We had two trips to Marmaris. The first was by water taxi and that was quite a thrilling journey and the second by Dolmus which was fun and very quick. We both enjoyed Marmaris – especially the old town by the castle – but doubt if we could survive there by night.
The last day came very quickly (our transfer was scheduled for 1.10am) and we had our last meal at the Wayside.
I've written about the transfer elsewhere.
The return flight was horrible. Nothing in the Aegean paperwork told us that there is a 5kg limit on hand luggage and our hand luggage was not weighed leaving Newcastle. My hand luggage was overweight (lemons and olives from the market as well as my usual stuff). I had a choice of dump everything or check it in. I decided to check it in and the double whammy hits you. Because it is now checked luggage, the 5kg hand luggage allowance can't be deducted so I had to pay the whole weight as excess - £75. The most expensive lemons and olives I've ever had! I shall be sending Aegean a bill for that amount as even the OnurAir in-flight magazine says that hand luggage limits are printed on the ticket. The check in staff were amazed that it wasn't on the Aegean paperwork.
Because of earlier problems there was no time to argue the case properly or to calm down before the flight. (My partner has IBS so you can imagine what the transfer and this did to her!). Fortunately we were sitting together but the leg room was ridiculously short (I think it was a different aircraft to our outbound one) and we arrived at Newcastle cramped and short tempered. All we wanted to do was get back to our respective homes and our taxi got caught in a tailback from an accident on the Newcastle central motorway.
Despite the dreadful end to our holiday we are both keen to come back but will not make the mistake of booking too early this time. Last time we booked 11 months before going and a lot of the excitement had been used up by the time we got to Icmeler. We are both happy to be back in the UK and both missing Icmeler – like it sounds, it gets under your skin.
Added
Shieldfield's review 7-5-10 to 21-5-10 (edit)
by shieldfield » 23 May 2010 11:54 am
Because the reviews are locked and can't be edited I need to post this edit as a new topic. Someone has kindly pointed out that the 5Kg hand baggage limit is stated in the booking confirmation email from Aegean and I have found it in mine. So my annoyance at the charge is entirely my own fault.
